Modulation of skin pigmentation by the tetrapeptide PKEK: in vitro and in vivo evidence for skin whitening effects
One keratinocyte experiment and four controlled human arms. In human keratinocytes, PKEK was associated with lower UVB-induced transcript levels for IL-6, IL-8, tumor necrosis factor alpha, and POMC. In a biopsy arm, 10 volunteers applied PKEK once a day for four weeks before a UVB exposure; the authors then reported less induction of IL-1 alpha, IL-6, IL-8, tumor necrosis factor alpha, POMC, and tyrosinase. Those two arms did not include sodium ascorbyl phosphate. Three further arms did combine the materials, so their appearance results are not evidence for Tetrapeptide-30 alone: a six-week facial-spot comparison in 39 Caucasian women, where the authors described a larger change for the pair than for either material without the other; an eight-week hand study in 19 Caucasian participants that added PKEK to a sodium ascorbyl phosphate preparation; and an eight-week, twice-daily facial comparison in 27 Japanese women. On the SCINEXA pigmentation score the authors reported a 26 percent shift for the combination and an 18 percent shift for sodium ascorbyl phosphate without PKEK.